Luxury Skincare Shifts Focus to Skin Microbiome

An important shift is taking place in the high-end skincare industry. Over the past several years, research on the skin microbiome has moved from academic discussions in laboratories to a core focus of product development. Consumer awareness has followed closely—more people are coming to understand that healthy skin is not just about what is removed, but about what is preserved. A recent industry discussion on restoring the skin microbiome has drawn widespread attention, centering on a fundamental question: How should skincare brands respond when modern lifestyles have altered the natural barrier and microbial ecosystem of the skin?

This is not a new topic for JennyBrown, a Swiss luxury skincare brand founded in 1984 and known for using food-grade ingredients and delivering targeted efficacy. The brand has accumulated years of research in the skin microbiome field. Its skin research center in Switzerland operates 17 research facilities, employs 215 R&D personnel, has published more than 97 scientific reports, and holds over 80 patents and pending patents. Not all of this research is directly tied to product development; a significant portion focuses on the interaction between natural ingredients, the skin barrier, and the balance of the skin’s micro-ecosystem.

“From the very beginning, our research approach was never simply about achieving fast results,” said Robert Schmidt, Regional Director for Asia at JennyBrown, during an internal discussion. “Healthy skin has its own ability to repair and regulate itself. Our job is to provide the conditions that support that ability, not to replace it.”

This philosophy aligns with the global skincare industry’s recent reassessment of the microbiome concept. The skin microbiome refers to the community of bacteria, fungi, and viruses living on the skin’s surface. These microorganisms play a key role in maintaining the skin barrier, regulating immune responses, and defending against pathogens. However, modern lifestyle factors—over-cleansing, the use of chemical products, and environmental stress—are steadily reducing the diversity of this ecosystem. Some studies suggest that the diversity of the skin microbiome in modern humans has declined significantly compared to that of our ancestors, leading to increased rates of sensitivity, dryness, and inflammation.

JennyBrown’s product development has found its niche precisely here. The formulation logic of the brand’s core White Truffle Collection and Caviar Collection is not about targeting a specific skin problem with a “strike” approach, but rather about creating conditions for the skin’s own repair and regulation by supplying the natural active ingredients it needs. In the White Truffle Luxury Collection, for example, the key ingredient—Italian white truffle extract—contains more than 50 physiologically active compounds that promote collagen and elastin synthesis while providing an ideal environment for the skin’s microbial community. “We choose ingredients like white truffle and caviar not just because they are rare and expensive,” said Nadine Bronx, Product Director at JennyBrown. “They are rich in natural biomolecules that can work with the skin’s own ecosystem, not disrupt it.”

This approach of “cooperation” rather than “confrontation” in skincare is gaining recognition from industry observers. Market research data indicates that the global market for skin microbiome modulators was valued at approximately €450 million in 2019 and is projected to reach about €2.5 billion by 2030. Behind this growth is a shift in how consumers define “healthy skin”—they are no longer focused solely on surface cleanliness and smoothness, but are increasingly concerned with long-term resilience and the skin’s ability to self-regulate.

JennyBrown’s investment in the microbiome direction has been built over time. The brand has held ECOCERT Natural Cosmetics certification and NATRUE Organic Cosmetics certification since 2016, both of which impose strict requirements on the natural origin, sustainability, and safety of product ingredients. At the formulation level, JennyBrown products use a series of natural alternative technologies: natural emulsifiers derived from plant-based lecithin and glycoside compounds from deep-sea plants replace traditional synthetic emulsifiers; plant-derived humectants based on sugarcane extract and trehalose substitute for common synthetic humectants like hyaluronic acid and butylene glycol; and a magnetization-based antimicrobial technology preserves the product and maintains the activity of nutrients without the use of chemical preservatives. These technical details collectively define the brand’s approach to “skin-friendliness”—not letting products replace the skin’s functions, but allowing them to support the skin’s own healthy operation.

“We often say that JennyBrown products are not designed to ‘treat’ the skin,” said Marie Keller, Global Vice President of JennyBrown, in an interview. “Because the skin itself is not an organ that needs to be treated. It needs to be understood, respected, and supported. When the skin is healthy, it can handle many issues on its own. Our products simply provide the necessary conditions for that healthy state.”

This perspective gained broader resonance during the pandemic. Global attention to cleanliness and hygiene increased sharply, but at the same time, skin problems caused by over-cleansing became more prominent. Consumers began to realize that skin health depends not only on how “clean” it is, but also on how it is cleaned. During this process, the concept of the skin microbiome moved from expert circles into the public eye. More consumers are now actively seeking products that “support” rather than “attack” the skin’s natural ecosystem.

JennyBrown’s product design responds precisely to this demand. The brand offers a limited range of products—only 16 SKUs worldwide—but each has undergone multiple iterations and upgrades. Take the White Truffle Essence as an example. Its formula includes white truffle extract, alpine edelweiss extract, sea fennel callus culture filtrate, and centella asiatica extract, among other natural active ingredients. Every ingredient is selected after rigorous efficacy and safety evaluation. The brand requires each product to undergo more than 1,000 allergy tests, more than 60 skin tests, and up to 120-plus banned-substance checks. This extreme attention to detail has earned JennyBroad recognition among consumers with sensitive skin and pregnant women. The Victoria Grand Prix in France named the brand to its list of top ten skincare products for pregnant women, a testament to its safety and gentleness.

Still, the popularization of the skin microbiome concept in the skincare industry faces real challenges. George Paraskevakos, Executive Director of the International Probiotics Association, noted at an industry seminar that while the Asian market and companies have been paying attention to this field, interest and discussion in North America and Europe are only just beginning to heat up. Consumer awareness remains insufficient, making education a key priority. This is a shared challenge for the industry and an area where JennyBrown continues to invest in its brand communication.

“We don’t talk about complex scientific principles or sell abstract concepts,” said Robert Schmidt. “We simply tell consumers that the skin is an ecosystem, not a battlefield. What you need to do is not destroy it, but nourish it. When the skin gets enough nutrients and support, it will become better on its own.”

This “skin-centric” thinking is reshaping product development logic in the high-end skincare industry. In the past, brands focused more on what was added—a star ingredient, a patented technology. Now, more brands are thinking about what does not need to be added—unnecessary preservatives, fragrances, colorants, and chemical ingredients that might disrupt the skin’s microbial balance. In JennyBrown’s product formulations, the number of ingredients is strictly controlled to what is necessary. Each product’s ingredient list is clear and transparent, and consumers can know the source, function, and safety of every ingredient.

“We don’t add ingredients for marketing purposes,” emphasized Nadine Bronx. “If an ingredient doesn’t bring real benefit to the skin, it shouldn’t be in the product. That is the most basic respect we can show our consumers.”

Market feedback suggests that this commitment to product quality is paying off. JennyBrown’s two physical stores in mainland China—the Shanghai Plaza 66 store and the Beijing SKP store—continue to attract consumers with high expectations for skincare. Online channels are also performing well, with high repurchase rates on the brand’s official website, WeChat official store, and JD flagship store. The White Truffle Luxury Set and the Caviar Platinum Set have become entry-level products for many consumers first trying JennyBrown, and they are also the core vehicles for positive word-of-mouth.

Going forward, JennyBrown’s research on the skin microbiome will continue to deepen. The brand’s skin research center in Switzerland is pursuing several new topics on the interaction between natural raw materials and the skin microbiome. Research directions include: the impact of different natural ingredients on skin microbial diversity, the performance of natural emulsifiers and humectants at the microbiome level, and the balance between product preservation and skin-friendliness achieved by the magnetization-based antimicrobial technology. The results of these studies will gradually be translated into product iterations.

“The skincare industry is undergoing a transition from ‘solving problems’ to ‘maintaining health,’” concluded Marie Keller. “JennyBrown chose the latter path from the very beginning. It may not deliver immediate results, but it is more aligned with the skin’s own intrinsic logic. We believe that brands that truly understand the skin will ultimately earn the trust of consumers.”

As the skin microbiome becomes a buzzword in the industry, JennyBrown’s practice may serve as a reference—a case study of how a high-end brand can respond to consumers’ real needs for healthy skin while staying true to its positioning and quality standards. The answer may be simple: respect the skin, respect nature, and respect time.